A vintage bathtub makeover with Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile

If you’ve got a vintage bath made of cast iron or steel coated in enamel, there’s a good chance it’s starting to look old and worn. But these are quality, beautiful baths so don’t replace it – give it a makeover with the Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile finishing kit.

Start by turning off the water to the bath and then remove the taps, drain outlet and any other metal hardware. (If you can’t or don’t want to do this, you can cover the fittings with masking tape.)

It’s time for some elbow grease – sanding and scrubbing the bath. Good preparation is vital if you want a good finish, so don’t skip or rush this step. Also remember to open the windows and wear a dust mask when sanding – much of the paint used on these baths contained lead!

Start preparation by removing loose paint with a wire brush, then sanding any paint chips until the surface is smooth. Use a 400-grit sandpaper for a great finish. After sanding, wipe the bath down with a damp cloth and then scrub the bath with a scouring pad and acetone, to remove contaminants such as soap. Acetone evaporates quickly, so the surface will be ready to paint by the time you’ve got the paint mixed!

Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile is a high-quality two-part epoxy acrylic. It is solvent-based, so work with the windows open for ventilation and wear rubber gloves. Tub and Tile can be thinned with 10% isopropyl alcohol or acetone if necessary (for penetrating deep scratches, for example).

The kit is sufficient to do two coats of a complete bath, but if you’re doing a smaller area, you can mix the appropriate amount at a ratio of four parts of Part B with one part of Part A (the activator).

Before mixing them, stir Part B thoroughly to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed, then add Part A to Part B and mix. You can start painting straight away. Apply the mix with a good-quality foam roller on flat surfaces and a fine-bristled varnish brush for the curves. Don’t worry if you see small bubbles in the paint – these will pop before it dries and the paint will smooth out as it self-levels. Leave the first coat to dry for at least an hour before applying a second coat, being careful to achieve a smooth finish.

Clean up your brush and roller using acetone or thinners before the paint has dried on them.

The Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile will take three days to cure completely, so this job needs to be planned in advance for when you don’t need to use the bath. Once the curing is complete, remove any masking tape and replace the fittings.

We love this sort of job, where a great quality piece of vintage hardware is given a second chance at life. Everything you need for this DIY, as well as the rest of the Rust-Oleum range, is available at Builders, both in-store and online at builders.co.za.